https://medium.com/@NautilusMag/the-perfect-wave-is-coming-b55d5de8e56f

Art: Francesco IzzoBy Adam Piore

Long ago I lived in Santa Cruz, California. Almost every morning I would throw on a wet suit, grab my surfboard out of the garage, and head to the rocky cliffs just a few blocks from my house. I would descend a well-worn path to the ocean below, paddle out to the break, and spend hours…